4/19/2023 0 Comments Affinity photo focus stacking![]() ![]() Right image: Focus Stacking.įocus Stacking involves taking several different images, each focused at a different part of the subject (a technique called Focus Bracketing). (Click on the image to see it larger better yet download the original to compare them for yourself.) Notice how the left image isn't all that sharp even in the area toward the front (the lens was focused 1/3rd of the way between the closest part and the furthest part, which is considered best practice for depth-of-field), whereas the right image is sharp from the front to the back. The left image was shot at f/32 (the smallest that lens can go), and the right image used a common technique called Focus Stacking. Have a look at the close-up images of the top jewelry shot below: both were shot with a Minolta 100mm macro lens with the same lighting setup. (That's why so many lens experts recommend shooting at the lens' "sweet spot" which is usually in the middle of it's f/stop range for sharpest results (but not the greatest depth-of-field). Most of the time the depth-of-field won't be great enough, plus at the smallest f/stops something called diffraction kicks in, where the image actually gets a little bit fuzzier. If you're shooting macro images for catalogs (jewelry photography, for example), you can't just use a small f/stop and hope to get everything in focus. The ethical question of photographing Amazon tribesįocus stacking for Olympus, Fujifilm, and Sony cameras.When you’ve selected your images (or the folder they’re in) click OK and Photoshop will open all of your images as individual layers in a single file, correcting any minor discrepancies between them as it does so. In either case, click Browse to locate your sequence on your computer and check the Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images box. ![]() The dialogue allows you to choose individual files or a folder of images to open. To import your TIFF or JPEG images into Photoshop, open Photoshop (but not your images) and choose File > Scripts > Load Files into Stack from the main menu. When you’ve done your basic processing, export the images as TIFF or JPEG files.Ģ. Assuming you took the Raw route, apply any exposure, colour, contrast and other adjustments as you would normally, but make sure that any adjustments are applied equally to every image in your sequence – the only difference between them should still be the point of focus, everything else should be identical. If you shot Raw, the first step is to process your images, but if you shot JPEGs you can skip this stage. For this exercise we’re going to use the photographer’s favourite, Adobe Photoshop.ġ. The next step is to combine the sequence so the ‘sharp’ parts of each image come together and create an apparently deeper depth of field. ProcessingĪt the end of the shooting stage you should have a series of images that are essentially identical, apart from their point of focus. The number of exposures you need to make will be determined by the magnification you’re shooting at, the aperture you’re using and the depth of field you want to achieve – the greater the magnification, the wider the aperture and the deeper the intended depth of field, the more shots you will need. To ensure there were sufficient overlaps in the depth of field, the focus was shifted by less than 1mm between shots, using a macro focusing rail for fine control.ĥ. The first and last images in the stacking sequence. With your image framed and your settings dialled in, switch to manual focus and focus on the closest part of your subject that you want to appear sharp in your final image. Pick a pre-set white balance (or set a custom colour temperature).Ģ. An aperture in the region of f/8–f/16 will give you a good balance of depth of field and quality, while a low ISO (100–200) will ensure noise-free images the shutter speed can be determined based on the other two settings. Switch to Manual shooting mode and dial in the aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Start by setting your camera up on a tripod and making sure your subject is held still so there’s no chance of either one moving between exposures (for this reason focus stacking is best suited to static subjects). ![]() This typically means setting your camera manually, rather than relying on automatic modes.ġ. You want to aim for the exposure, white balance, framing – pretty much everything except the point of focus – to be exactly the same for each shot in your sequence. The key thing at the shooting stage is consistency. The sharply focused parts of each frame are then combined during post-processing to create a single composite image with an extended depth of field that simply wouldn't be possible in a single shot. Rather than taking a single photograph, multiple exposures are made, with each one focused at a slightly different distance. Focus stacking is a two-part process that starts with the picture-taking stage. ![]()
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